Listen to the full episode đ you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names. He hit the deck and sustained minor injury to his feet, hips and back but he's essentially OK. The climb is now the. r/climbing. There is a stepdown of about 1. 14 R), a Neil Gresham FA that shares the same belay ledge as Magical Thinking. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing âAlphaneâ outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. On November 6, Will Bosi made the second ascent of the boulder problem Nova at Holstejn crag in the Moravsky Kras area of Czechia. . 4K subscribers. Expand user menu Open settings menu Open settings menuEP 142: Aidan Roberts â Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style 1 Nov 2022 · The Nugget Climbing Podcast. The only other suggested V17 is Nalle Hukkataivalâs 2016 problem Burden of Dreams, located in the forests of Finland. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. Hestal. View this post on Instagram. Drew Ruana 8C+, Katie Lamb Repeats and Will Bosi Rumours. Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel â Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser). The worldâs third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. This video reflects on the good and bad of my 1-4-7 journey. K. He eventually put those rumours to bed with the announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Coloradoâs. I say "about five" because there are a couple of originally proposed V17s that have seen multiple ascents and now have some skepticism over the grades. EP 142: Aidan Roberts â Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style. 22. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space. âs first two V16âs: Superpowers and Isles of. In 2021, he made the first ascent of King Capella (9b/5. Alpha Clones are Eve Online accounts that do not have a monthly subscription fee like Omega Accounts do. 11, Reservoir Wall) 870 upvotes · 77 comments. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. Soutenez la chaîne en visitant le shop d'EpicTV : avons filmé cette. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17âs. Unlike many modern rock climbers, Raboutou remained secretive about his tripâs ascents, posting only humorous vacation photos in one of the worldâs most beautiful locations. Eastern time, Shawn Raboutou reported the first ascent of âAlphane,â V17, in Fionnay, Switzerland. Raboutou has some interesting notes about the problem: âAlphane is a pretty weird line. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. Back in October 2022, he spent a session working the moves of Alphane V17 with Shawn Raboutou. 1. Video of Simon Lorenzi Sending Alphane V17 Just Dropped Gripped November 17, 2023. In 2022 he established not one but two V17s, with the first ascents of Alphane and Megatron. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. Photo by Patty Kline. Will Bosi, Scottish crimpmonster ahoy, recently visited Chironico in Switzerland in the company of Aidan Roberts. Aanmelden of installeren is niet nodig. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Alphane has become the most repeated V17 boulder in the world. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. Categories: Video Tags: News. com ), is also keenly aware of the need for safe crags. K. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphaneâand Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosiâs training history. 11. And yes we are scared of falling. Alphane 9A/V17, Forgotten Gem 8C/V15 and Vecchio flash 8B/V13 Sam Pratt filmInstagram - to my sponsors:adidas five. The interesting thing about Shawn is that there are consistently rumors of him sending hard boulders without posting about it or telling social media. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single sessionâa V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. He established Soudain Seul V17 in Fontainebleau in 2021 and then repeated Shawn Raboutouâs Alphane V17 in 2022. Alphane was established by Shawn Raboutou earlier this year. Lots of tangents and rambles as well as hopefully thought provoking questions. Loosely inspired by a few moves from Alphane. Raboutou has had quite the year of climbing, already establishing V16âs F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds as well as the V17 Alphane. K. The Spot Boulder, Boulder, Colo. Will adds Burden of Dreams to a long list of hard repeats and first ascents, including Alphane 9A , Honey Badger 8C+ (FA, UKC News) and a 9b+ sport first ascent, King Capella . . This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. After starting seated on Sedni si na Kost V14 , the line has two moves before merging into the second. But Drew is certainly building one of the most impressive bases of 14s, 15s, and 16s while also studying for an engineering degree. Shawn Raboutou and Simon Lorenzi being the other two. The. Belgiumâs Simon Lorenzi, best known for making the first ascent of Soudain Seulâa. In October, he ticked the worldâs hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutouâs Alphane V17. This is not the first time Ghisolfi has tried a V17 boulder problem. 4. Shawn Raboutou is an extremely strong boulderer from the USA. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans. Ghisolfi is one of the worldâs best sport climbers. Some climbers like to focus on âbuilding their pyramid. Miscommunication is a huge reason for climbing accidents and there is a list of instances where someone was taken off belay because they thought they were rappelling while the intent was actually lowering. A long-standing project in Colorado finally gets done, becoming one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. 8" - 20 mm shallow 3 finger pocket. V17/9A is currently the hardest boulder grade in the world. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. Stephano Ghisolfi Tries Alphane V17 In new video, Ghisolfi meets up with Shawn Raboutou to attempt the moves on one of the hardest problems in the world. my guess is the beastmaker has more rounded edges so it needs to be a bit deeper then seeing that the smallest here is 15mm. Or maybe Shawn and Aiden working together sped up their process (vs Nalle and Daniel trying their projects alone). Bolts would be better but maybe overkill. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14âs, twelve V15âs, two V16âs, and one V17. For more than a month now, Will Bosi has been working on Burden of Dreams, a Finnish V17 first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival and contender for the most famous unrepeated boulder problem in the world. Besides the height is from the highest point. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Shawn Raboutou: Boulder (Worked) 6th Apr 2022 9A First ascent. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing âAlphaneâ outside ChironicoThis is the first ascent of the world's third suggested V17. The worldâs third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an âamazing. " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutouâs Alphane V17, and heâs put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. For the sake of my sanity, as well as yours, this list only covers boulder problems graded V15/V16 (8C/8C+) and above. It was the last time anyone has climbed the hard problem, and a new film featuring Lorenziâs send was just released by Mellow. Alphane had two quick repeats, full story here. E48: Beth Rodden - Lessons from a dramatic career at the top of the sport May 31, 2023. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11, and was discovered by climber Dave. Around 2 p. Watch on. Roberts has been on a tear over the past year, with a repeat of Alphane V17, the first ascent of Isles of Wonder SS V16 (below) and a recent first ascent of a V15 â read more about it here. Gripped April 29, 2023. Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi quickly retrod Raboutouâs tracks on âAlphane,â his last V17 FA â which he posted in August. Hallgasson EP 142: Aidan Roberts â Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style és még 236 epizódot ettĹl: The Nugget Climbing Podcast, ingyen! Nem szükséges regisztráció vagy telepítés. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. It would be cool if Simon did go back and manage a reasonably swift repeat of Alphane. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. In 2021, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17 â watch his send here. Yes, V17 is currently the hardest boulder grade. EP 184: Nic. Though unverified by Climbing, rumors circulate that Raboutou has also sent the Megatron project, in Colorado, another presumed V17. There are levels that are lower/easier. Jimmy Chin, renowned climber, skier, mountaineer, and photographer, describes his admiration for the diverse landscapes of Grand Teton National Park. V17 is still a very ephemeral grade, as half of the four proposed V17 problems in the world have seen only one ascent, and a third, Shawn Raboutouâs Alphane, seems a likely contender for a downgrade. After his FA, Roberts acknowledged just how deceptive the sit-start turned out to be. Learn how he manages expectations, deals with pressure, and maintains his skin while attempting challenging climbs. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. Shawn on Megatron V17 â Photo from Shawn Raboutouâs Instagram. 1M+ downloads. 1 SONG ⢠5 MINUTES ⢠OCT 20 2023. According to Bosi, Terranova has âsome of the worst crimps and pinches [heâs] used,â which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17. Wedge Climbing has released a film depicting what Aidan Robertsâs calls âtwo rather contrasting days filled with big walks, epic views, classic grading confusion, hiding from the rain, a lazy pug and a bit of hard climbingâ in the UKâs Lake District. Will Bosi has made the first repeat of possibly the hardest boulder in the world âBurden Of Dreamsâ. âWith a handful of existing 8c+ [V16] boulders in the world, proposing 9a [V17] is the logical step. Or perhaps Alphane is low in the grade for V17 (still V17, but there's room in a grade for harder and easier problems). 15âs) resumes of any climber. A post shared by William Bosi (@will_bosi) Dominik Bösch on Act of Grace and Graceland. Whereas Alphane is known to be very skin friendly, allowing for longer sessions. He also put up the U. New V17âs have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woodsâ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutouâs Alphane. However, if all four proposed V17 problems are truly V17, then six climbers have climbed V17: Raboutou, Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods, Will. Download the app . The problem links a V15 start into the V14 Tron, a stand start version of the problem first put up by Woods in 2017. 5m with a good ledge of half a meter wide. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of âAlphaneâ in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. The worldâs third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Interview: How Ben Hanna Became the Athlete He Wanted to Be Bubble Wrap: Woods' FA of Gym ProblemAlphane (V17) 2nd Ascent - Is Burden of Dreams Next? | Lattice Newsletter, October 2022 Lattice Training sent this email to their subscribers on October 28, 2022 . With Send of âAlphane,â Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14âs, twelve V15âs, two V16âs, and one V17. Yet. 15câs: Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Change in Flatanger, and Bibliographie in CĂŠĂźse. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. They're effectively a Free-to-Play option. At 24, Aidan Roberts just became the fourth climber in the world to successfully send a V17. Gripped December 16, 2022. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. Shawn Raboutou on Burden. Raboutou himself disclosed nothing about the climb in the post â other than the name and. The list of people who have sent 15b and v16 is: Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Sean Bailey, Carlo Traversi, Will Bosi. In 2021, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17 â watch his send here. Charles Barkley has been roasted plenty o. Since his 2018 ascent of Off the Wagon SDS Shawn has continued to cement his reputation by establishing many hard problems at 8C+ and above, including Big Z, Fuck the System and The Story. K, and opened and repeated a bunch of V15âs. In the opening scene he. Featuring: Shawn Raboutou, Daniel Woods, Dre. Ghisolfi makes progress on individual. Heâs named the line, which is located on the back side of the graffiti-covered Rocher Brûlé boulder, No Kpote Only. Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first ascent of Alphane, in Chironico, Switzerland, confirming that he has indeed climbed the worldâs hardest bouldering grade. Climbing was a natural calling for both kids from their toddler years. Dreams was the first proposed V17 after the Finnish climber took the problem down in September 2016, following over 4,000 attempts and six seasons. 6" - 40mm - deep 3 finger pocket. . "Before that, Aidan Roberts and he both took a similar approach to repeat Alphane (V17/9A). The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. On July 14 Mat Wright made the first ascent of Magical Thinking, a hard and terribly runout single pitch at Pavey Ark, in the U. Two V17 climbers are in Finland projecting Burden of Dreams V17 (9A). Download the app . Will sending Alphane (V17) Image by Sam Pratt. 15d), DNA (5. 1. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Will spent ten sessions on Alphane this trip, in addition to having spent two sessions on the boulder alongside Shawn Raboutou last year, prior to Raboutou getting the first ascent. In a bouldering video released last August, local pro climber, Shawn Raboutou, is featured making the first ascent of Alphane (V17), one of the worldâs hardest problems. Though unverified by Climbing, rumors circulate that Raboutou has also sent the Megatron project, in Colorado, another presumed V17. In 2022, Will made the third ascent of Alphane (V17/9A) in Switzerland. Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. âEveryone still thinks of me as only a lead climber. âs Peak District. This week was a BIG one on the climbing world, as Alphane has been repeated!âAlphaneâ is the world's third V17/9A boulder problem, according to American boulderer Shawn Raboutou. In this week's Ticklist, Rob Greenwood talks us through Shawn Raboutou's new Font 9A/V17 in Chironico, Switzerland, a problem that has been kept quiet for th. â. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. This weekend Ryohei Kameyama, from Japan, made the second ascent of No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau, France. According to the French climbing magazine Grimper, Charles Albert, a French climber known for hard barefoot ascents, has made the first ascent of a Fontainebleau problem and proposed 9a/V17 for the grade. EP 166: Will Bosi â Sending âBurden of Dreamsâ V17, Dream Projects,. . Daniel Woodsâs New V17 is the Hardest Problem in the USâAnd Possibly the World. Vadim Timonov proposes a new V17. gripped. The Last Tepui: Una aventura cientifica y de escalada 02/05/2022. the bad weather/conditions that. 11/1/10 - The Travel Channel has picked up groundbreaking documentary series "First Ascent" for U. Other notable ascents are listed below. This seventeen-move masterpiece had been a futuristic project for several top climbers for quite a while until young crusher Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent in 2022. (Photo/The Spot Boulder) When The Spot â now known as The Spot Boulder, part of a chain of four Colorado gyms â opened in 2002, it was one of the first. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the routeâs first repeat in. Alphane (V17) Alphane is a testament to Grahamâs vision and perseverance. Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphaneâand Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosiâs training history. 15âs) resumes of any climber. com. IMO this is NOT an indication of the grade as there's so few V17's and even V16's for choose from that it shouldn't be ridiculous that when a more approachable line is put up (approach, conditions, hold quality etc. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Repeated just a few weeks ago by Aidan Roberts , the boulder just. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh, has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. Located in a remote foothills of the Caucasus Mountains, not far from Mount Elbrus, the area. Categories: Video Tags: News. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. The screws had 3 inches of thread each so thats 654lbs i think it will hold for a while before that force deteriorates to my body weight. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of âAlphaneâ in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. Working it alongside Raboutou were Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb. Then sent within about a week or so. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single sessionâa V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. âHaving achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing,â Hukkataival wrote on his Instagram. Amputee Ascents - Shelf Road, CO Menses Prow. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Up to 10% OFF climbing training gear with code FOCUS10 at the EpicTV Shop: the CAMP competition: this we. CWIF 2023, Bosi on Burden, and Hazelnutt Slab . Daniel Woods spends a month in Fionnay, Switzerland taking on the area's classics and establishing one himself. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to. The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. Alphane was âquite a long process,â Lorenzi told Climbing. He has graduate degrees in chemistry and physics and is currently. When asked about it, he simply replied, âI have another cool video. By 1995, he'd made 2,000 ascents of the line. Watch on. Thereâs Big Drama at the Top of Mount Everest. Trying hard is the end result, and I focus on the process of making it happen. I have had the opportunity as of late to speak with Highsnobiety and Boston Consulting Group (BCG) as well as the Outside Business Journal about both consumerâŚWill Bosi Claims Third Ascent of âAlphaneâ (V17), Evades Grade Question. In the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosiâs fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13). Aidan trying Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+) The Lappnor Project (Burden of Dreams V17 FA by Nalle) Training for 9A/V17 Boulder - Aidan Roberts Board Climbing (Wedge video) Alphane 9A/V17, Forgotten Gem 8C/V15 and Vecchio flash 8B/V13 Sam Pratt filmInstagram - to my sponsors:adidas five. Alexander Megos ended the year in style by redpointing First Round, First Minute (9b/5. Read the full story here, and watch his ascent in the video above. UKC News 14 Apr 2023. â Aidan Roberts Climbing Alphane, V17 in the Scarpa Instinct Lace â Nathaniel Coleman taking Olympic Silver with his Scarpa Dragos â Alex Puccio sending The Penrose Step (V14), as well as 3 other boulders of the same grade, in the Scarpa Instinct VSR. Other notable ascents are listed. Everything about the problem is difficult. French minimalist "Barefoot Charles" Albert has announced what he believes is his hardest send to date, L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), proposing a grade of 9A/V17. Listen to EP 142: Aidan Roberts â Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style, an episode of The Nugget Climbing Podcast, easily on Podbay - the best podcast player on the web. Have a question about what color carabiner speaks to your soul? Want to talk some smack about pebble wrestlers? Wondering how chalk buckets work?Noah Walker May 18, 2022. Dwelling » Climbing » Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of âAlphaneâ (V17), Evades Grade Query The worldâs third V17 boulder drawback has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the road in August 2022. . The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16âs F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17âs Alphane and Megatron. A documentary about Nalle Hukkataivalâs four-year journey to establish the hardest boulder problem in the world, Burden of Dreams (9A/V17). Today on Instagram, he finally put those rumours to bed with his announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Coloradoâs. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the routeâs first. Raboutou claimed the first ascent of âMegatron,â V17, his most recent mega-hard Colorado project. com. After his recent success in Switzerland on Alphane (V17/9A), Aidan Roberts has not wasted any time in getting to work on his next challenge. Pictures and analysis included. Check out The Lappnor Project for info on the full-length film. . I say "about five" because there are a couple of originally proposed V17s that have seen multiple ascents and now have some skepticism over the grades. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single sessionâa V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Since Hukkataival ascent, several other V17s have been claimed. Since the pandemic, heâs made the transition from World Cups to outdoor climbing, and has systematically been sending some of the worldâs. Itâs the first V17 in the United States, and only the second in the world after Nalle Hukkataivalâs Burden of Dreams. We've got some exciting announcements for this semester including information on club discounts and paying dues, the upcoming UR Climbing Day, the activities fair, general interest meetings (GIMs), and. Gripped December 16, 2022. Whereas Alphane is known to be very skin friendly, allowing for longer sessions. British climber Will Bosi has made the second repeat of Alphane (f9A), proposed to be the world's fourth Font 9A boulder. Writing on his Instagram, Aidan said: 'This one was a pretty amazing experience to live. He first spotted this line in the early 2000s but abandoned it, as V15 was then the hardest established grade. Alphane. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Alphane is in a place where it makes sense for climbers to travel from all around to try, itâs in a style that fits with many of the worldâs best boulderers, and itâs right next door for many many strong Euros; it makes sense that if any V17 was going to see a fast repeat, it would be Alphane. Although only Raboutou managed to finish the line, all three felt V17 was likely accurate. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and. Last spring, he made the first ascent of Honey Badger (hard V16). 15b, and put up two 5. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. It was the last time anyone has climbed. The worldâs third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an âamazing. âUsually, when I go out with fellow guides or. Get more from The Nugget Climbing Podcast. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. All this said, ~7 weeks of effort is still probably the fastest ascent yet of a V17. Last fall, he made the third ascent of Alphane (V17). The world's third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. He is the first person to repeat two established 9As. 10/7/11 - Another ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia, has flown under the radar for about a week. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. . Video escalada: Alphane V17, el cuarto 9a de boulder propuesto por Shawn Raboutou. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar ârésumé. Newsflash. Hard Ascents for Pete Whittaker in Patagonia . EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis â All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing. Now two new videos have dropped about him. âs Peak District. . View this post on Instagram. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of âAlphaneâ in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. Will Bosi on what is considered the hardest boulder in the world â Burden of Dreams (V17) ŠDiego Borello. 15b). Pictures and analysis included. I was psyched to recreate two interesting moves I saw from the videos and stitch them together into something @. The problem, located on the back side of the Rocher Brûlé boulder, rose to prominence in January 2019 after Charles Albert made the first ascent of the line (barefoot) and proposed the grade of 9A/V17. In a press release sent out earlier today, Will said: 'A. The V17 climber puts down one of his oldest projects. People have to come into agreement on how much harder v17 should be in comparison to v16. Shawn Raboutou has belatedly announced an ascent of Alphane in Chironico last year and proposed the grade of 9A. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. N to 5. Frencesco Berardino has repeated Off the Wagon V16, one of the most iconic lines in the world, at only 19 years old. Michael Levy. In the opening scene he. Video escalada: Alphane V17, el cuarto 9a de boulder propuesto por Shawn Raboutou 26/09/2022. 190 in) = 109 lb per inch of penetration ". Climbers Ski Baffinâs Epic Polar Star Couloir Gripped November 16, 2023. It's. I would think somewhat intuitively, if you're on a strength training hangboard routine and work up to v10 finger strength* from v5, then probably as a byproduct you'd bump up your route grade from 5. At V17, Megatron joins a very small list of other climbs at this top bouldering grade. You can watch his FA of Unison V15 below. Last Wednesday, Allison Vest finished off a nemesis project in Joe's Valley: Pagan Poetry Low (V13). Itâs a powerful problem on a big boulder at the edge of a field in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Alphane saw its fourth ascent on the 15th of December 2022 by Simon Lorenzi after spending a few sessions on it throughout the year. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. But Bosiâs skill set isnât just restricted to wrestling. Shawn sent Alphane in April 2022 (but didnât announce it until August 2022) after 25 sessions spanning over a few months. It has since seen two repeats , one by Aidan Roberts , who got the first repeat later in the year in October and then by Scot Will Bosi in November of the same year. Natalie Berry UKC. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. Listen to your favorite songs from Alphane V17 by Hestal Now. Share. 5K subscribers in the socalclimbing community. K. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder. Hopefully this will get as much. Cet hiver, le grimpeur Franco-Américain Shawn Raboutou a sorti pas un, mais deux V17, rien de moins! Dans le premier cas câest Alphane (V17) en Suisse et dans le second câest Megatron (V17) au Colorado. A friend of mine was climbing on 12/8 in Oklahoma when he fell onto 2 Omega Pacific Link Cams. It was the last time anyone has climbed the hard problem, and a new film featuring Lorenziâs send was just released by. His success on the project has been a badly kept secret in the climbing world and rumours were circulating as soon as he reported his. The V17 climber puts down one of his oldest projects. . Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. Aidan Roberts and Sam Prior host this climbing-themed podcast that kind of goes where it goes. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training. A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) Raboutou and Roberts on V16âs . Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. Keen readers of Climbing will remember my frequent coverage of another route at Pavey Ark, Lexicon (E11 7a/5. As though this wouldnât be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three Worldâs V16, climbing it. The worldâs third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an âamazing experience. Unlock 323 exclusive posts. It features Roberts making the first ascents of Out of Shadows (v13), Back for Seconds. Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of Americaâs Classic Hard Mixed Routes. The 24-year-old Brit needed only three days to FA Unison (V15), in Ticino, Switzerland. . Simon Lorenzi is one of the best boulderers in the world. . âApparently I need to start bouldering more,â she says.